Father of Butter Chicken
Monday, September 30, 2024
As I sat in the bustling cafeteria at Delhi Airport, enjoying a spicy Punjabi samosa and a steaming cup of masala tea, I was briefly distracted by a flutter of wings.
A myna bird landed on the iron grill next to my table, eyeing me with great curiosity. Its bright orange beak and legs stood out against its dark brown feathers, and its sharp, inquisitive gaze seemed to follow my every move. Without hesitation, it hopped onto my table—a bold move that caught me off guard. I broke off a piece of my samosa and offered it to the bird, which pecked at it eagerly. It looked back at me, making a sound as if trying to convey something important. With a swift flap of its wings, the myna took off, vanishing into the lively airport scene.
“Butter Chicken searching for its Dad “was the title of the article in “Times of India” newspaper. That aroused my curiosity. Butter Chicken is, undoubtedly, the most popular Indian dish across the globe. Many Chefs have experimented with Butter Chicken and they have created various avatars of same, like Butter Chicken Pizza, Pasta and Dosa. Butter chicken has even become filling inside Samosa too.
Butter chicken and myself share a 30-year-old relationship. Working in food industry, Butter Chicken has been an integral part of my livelihood for many decades. Isn’t it natural to step in and lend a helping hand when butter chicken faces an issue? I decided to try it on my upcoming Delhi visit.
Once in Delhi, I had a mission, apart from my official duties. I decided to find the real father of butter chicken. With that goal in mind, I headed towards Moti mahal restaurant located in Dariyagang. This 70-year-old restaurant finds a special place in Indian culinary history.
The airport taxi pulled up at the entrance of Moti Mahal, and as I stepped out, I could hear the Azaan (prayer) drifting over from the nearby Juma Masjid. This grand mosque, constructed from red stone and marble in 16th century by Emperor Shah Jahan, stood as a majestic testament to Delhi's rich architectural heritage.
The gate of the restaurant opened to a courtyard full of potted lush green plants. There I saw the entrance of the restaurant. It took me back to the time. Table cloth, cutlery, tables, chairs, waiters uniform, plastic flowers on the table, everything seemed old fashioned. Even the pink paint on the walls looks so tainted that it looked like they have not painted them for several decades. The first impression that I had did not match with my expectation about an iconic restaurant.
Nevertheless, when I looked at the cash counter, I could see an array of awards framed and preserved. They proudly displayed the restaurant's long-standing legacy. It reminded me that beneath the unattractive exterior laid a rich history worth exploring. A friendly waiter took my order. All I ordered was butter chicken and Lecha paratha..
As I waited for the food to arrive, my mind wandered back to the rich history of this iconic restaurant. From here on, my story shifts into black and white, as I take you on a journey to Peshawar in undivided India of 1930. Gora Bazar, a lively marketplace in the heart of Peshawar, was known for its colonial charm and vibrant cultural diversity. The name "Gora Bazar" (White Market) reflected its past, frequented by British officers and their families. The narrow lanes were always lively with vendors selling everything from spices to textiles and the scent of the local food wafting through the air attracted the visitors.
In one of the quiet corners of this market stood a small eatery, run by Kundan Lal Gujral, his cousin Kundan Lal Jaggi, and their friend Mukha Singh. The trio was passionate about food, and their love for innovation led them to dig a tandoor oven right in the middle of their shop. This clever idea introduced Peshawar to the smoky, charred flavors of tandoori cooking, which quickly gained local popularity.
Unfortunately, in 1947, the Partition of India turned their world upside down. Like millions of others, the three were forced to leave their home in Peshawar and flee to Delhi as refugees. Undeterred by the hardships, they rebuilt their lives from scratch. In Central Delhi, they established a restaurant that would later become legendary Moti Mahal.
Moti Mahal’s tandoori dishes were an instant hit in post-Partition Delhi, drawing crowds with their unique flavors. However, it was Kundan Lal Gujral’s next culinary breakthrough that would cement the restaurant’s place in history. Those were days when restaurants did not have proper refrigeration facilities. Preserving marinated chicken was a challenge as it could not be kept uncooked for a long time. Tandoori chicken also cannot be kept outside in normal temperature for long as it has a tendency to get dry if left unconsumed. As a solution, he created a rich, creamy makhani gravy that not only moistened the chicken, but enhanced its flavors. This dish, now known as Butter Chicken, has since become a global symbol of Indian cuisine.
One of the well-known admirer of this restaurant was Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru. Meherchand Khanna who held multiple important portfolios in the first Prime Minister of India’s cabinet introduced him to this restaurant. Khanna was familiar with the eatery since its Gora Bazar days in Peshawar. He recommended its unique tandoori menu to Nehru. Impressed by the flavors and originality, Nehru made Moti Mahal's menu a part of his diplomatic offerings. They served their renowned dishes to State guests. This marked the beginning of Moti Mahal's rise to fame and the rest is history.
During the last decade of the 20th century, it became clear that the brand was losing its market share to competitors. The Trio sold the restaurant to its current owner, Vinod Chadda. However, in 2003, the Gujaral family, still holding the rights to the “Moti Mahal” brand, returned to the business and began franchising. Meanwhile, Kundanlal Jaggi's grandson aimed to preserve their legacy by opening a new restaurant in Delhi called Dariyaganj in 2019. They credit Kundanlal Jaggi with the invention of butter chicken, recounting the following story:
During the partition of India, a truck full of refugees arrived at the restaurant seeking food. With only leftover pieces of tandoori chicken available, Kundanlal Jaggi quickly created a gravy using tomato pulp, spices, and cream. Actually, he was giving birth to butter chicken. However, the rivalry between Moti Mahal group and the Gujaral generation next escalated when Dariyaganj adopted the tagline “Inventors of Butter Chicken”. Moti Mahal responded by taking the matter to court. Now, the Delhi High Court will determine the rightful claim to the dish's origin.
My food arrived, and the butter chicken tasted good, but not as much as I would like that to be. The lachha paratha was flaky and warm and jelled well with the curry. I enjoyed the combination.
As I savored each bite, I imagined about the great men who were part of history. They would have dined on the tables around me. Jawaharlal Nehru, Indira Gandhi, Richard Nixon, Zulfiker Ali Bhuto, Nikhita Kruschev, Bill Clinton are a few names among many of the esteemed visitors.
In fact, Khrushchev was so impressed with Moti Mahal food that he invited Kundan Lal Gujral to open a stall at an international trade fair in Moscow. Feroze Gandhi, accompanied by his two sons, Rajiv and Sanjay also dined in this place. When Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto was Foreign Minister of Pakistan, he vised this place and praised the food. Knowing this, Indira Gandhi ensured that dishes from Moti Mahal were served during the Simla Agreement talks. Maulana Abdulkalam Azad, the first education minister of India reportedly told Shah of Iran that visiting Delhi and not eating at Moti Mahal is like visiting Agra and not seeing Taj Mahal.
Stomach full and the soul satisfied, I paid the bill, came out of the restaurant and walked towards Juma Masjid, eager to have a closer look at its majestic architecture.
On my return to Airport, I looked around to see the mina bird. It was nowhere to be found. But I ran into Chef Ajay while in the lounge waiting to be boarded. He heads the kitchen of a large restaurant chain based in Kuwait. Soon my butter chicken trial became subject of our conversation. Chef Ajay dismissed the court case as marketing drama. According to him, the court case has attracted international media and the food lovers flocking to both the places to decide who serves the original dish. He further stated that the makhani gravy was part of his family tradition for centuries.
The myna bird’s curious gaze lingers in my thoughts even as I write this. Was it trying to tell me the truth, which I was seeking? Butter chicken truly seems to have too many fathers, making it something beyond what a simple person like Anand Pillai can resolve. Yet through this journey, I have developed a deeper connection to the food I love and the history that shaped it.
While these two restaurants battle it out in court, let us focus on what really matters: the joy of sharing a good meal with our loved ones.
What’s your favorite staple to enjoy with butter chicken?
Butter naan, pulao, paratha, or something else?
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Anand Pillai holds an extensive experience in food industry, complemented by his fervent passion for writing about it. Currently serves as a Sales Manager at Al Naji Infotech company
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