The journey began with a long-awaited breath of freedom, a cherished escape from the shadows of a world once gripped by a relentless pandemic. Helik and Hemel, despite the echoes of a past Euro tour in 2017—where France, the Netherlands, Italy, and Switzerland danced through our memories—could scarcely recall the essence of those places, their young hearts but fleeting passengers in a distant past.
Undeterred, I drew from our bucket list a new dream: a voyage to the heart of history, where the echoes of WWII, the somber tales of Hitler’s regime, and the somber chronicles of the Jewish plight would weave a tapestry of profound reflection. Thus, Germany and Poland emerged as our chosen realms.
Swati, with the splendor of Switzerland etched in her soul, yearned to add Austria to our tapestry, drawn by its similar charm. After countless hours spent stitching together this intricate journey, our departure on the 26th of July 2024, marked a new chapter. From the sunlit skies of Kuwait, we set sail toward Berlin, our gateway into this historical odyssey.
Dynamic Berlin
As we stepped off the plane at Berlin Airport early in the morning, the city’s historical weight seemed to greet us with the chill of a new day. Our first stop was the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. Designed by architect Peter Eisenman, this monument is a solemn tribute to the six million Jewish victims of the Holocaust. The 2,711 concrete slabs of varying heights create an eerie, undulating landscape, and as we wandered through the grid of somber stone, the magnitude of the tragedy it commemorates felt profoundly real.
From there, we meandered through the city streets to our next landmark—the Brandenburg Gate. Originally commissioned by Frederick the Great, this neoclassical triumphal arch has witnessed Berlin's many phases of history. Once a symbol of division during the Cold War, it now stands as a proud emblem of unity and peace. Standing beneath its majestic columns, we felt the pulse of Berlin’s resilience and transformation.
A short walk from the Brandenburg Gate brought us to the Berlin Wall, a stark reminder of the city’s tumultuous past. We visited the preserved sections of the Wall and the East Side Gallery, where vibrant murals now cover the remaining segments. Each painting told its own story of escape, repression, and the long-sought hope for reunification, providing a vivid glimpse into the intense political climate that once tore the city apart.
Although time was tight and we didn’t make it to the observation deck of the Berlin TV Tower, its 368-meter height loomed in our minds. The panoramic view from the top would have been an incredible way to grasp the scale of Berlin’s urban sprawl and reflect on its transformation through the decades.
Our next destination was the Rebuilt Reichstag, the German Parliament building that stands as a testament to both Nazi tyranny and democratic renewal. Heavily damaged during World War II, the Reichstag was meticulously restored, now crowned with a striking glass dome designed by Norman Foster. The modern glass structure symbolizes transparency and openness, echoing the renewed spirit of democratic Germany.
The Jewish Museum Berlin offered us a deep dive into Jewish history and culture in Germany. Designed by Daniel Libeskind, the museum’s unconventional architecture was matched by the intensity of its exhibits. From medieval Jewish life to the horrors of the Holocaust, each display was a powerful reminder of the resilience and contributions of the Jewish community.
Our exploration continued at Checkpoint Charlie, a notable Cold War landmark. Once a significant border crossing point between East and West Berlin, it has been preserved as a museum and open-air exhibit. The site offered us a fascinating look into the geopolitical tensions of the era and the daring escape attempts that defined the city’s divided years.
Finally, no visit to Berlin would be complete without exploring the Pergamon Museum. Renowned for its impressive collection of ancient artifacts, the museum houses the Pergamon Altar, the Ishtar Gate of Babylon, and other masterpieces. Each exhibit transported us to different eras of ancient civilizations, underscoring Berlin’s role as a hub for historical and archaeological research.
Despite the hiccup with our rental car due to a licensing issue, we found getting around Berlin to be a breeze. Germany’s extensive and efficient public transport network, including ICE, IC, RE, S-Bahn, U-Bahn, Trams, and City buses, made our city exploration smooth and convenient. As we wrapped up our day of discovery, we were grateful for the chance to witness Berlin’s rich tapestry of history, resilience, and culture.
Harbored Hamburg
After a breathtaking journey on the ICE train, we arrived in Hamburg, ready to delve into its rich history and vibrant culture. Our first stop was the St. Nikolai Memorial, a site both haunting and profoundly moving. Once a majestic Gothic church, St. Nikolai was ravaged by Allied bombing during World War II. Today, its preserved ruins stand as a somber monument to the devastation that befell Hamburg.
Ascending the observation platform, we were struck by the contrast between the memorial's solemnity and the city's modern skyline. The panoramic view of Hamburg was a striking juxtaposition of past and present, with the memorial’s history etched into the city's vibrant, contemporary landscape. Inside the museum, we immersed ourselves in a deeply reflective experience, learning about the impacts of the war and Hamburg’s path to recovery. The exhibits narrated stories of loss, rebuilding, and renewal, leaving us with a profound sense of respect for the city’s journey.
Our next adventure took us to Miniature Wunderland, a realm where imagination truly takes flight. This expansive model railway exhibit is nothing short of a marvel. Each intricate detail, from bustling cities to tranquil countryside scenes, was crafted with meticulous precision. As we wandered through the miniature landscapes, we were enchanted by the lifelike accuracy and whimsical scenarios. Trains glided along their tracks, and tiny figures engaged in everyday activities, creating a dynamic and magical tableau. The exhibit was not just a visual feast but also a playful exploration of global diversity, capturing the essence of different regions in miniature form.
No visit to Hamburg would be complete without exploring Speicherstadt, the world’s largest warehouse district and a UNESCO World Heritage site. This historical area, known for its red-brick buildings and canals, evokes the spirit of Hamburg’s mercantile past. As we meandered through the cobblestone streets and crossed charming bridges, we marveled at the architectural grandeur of the warehouses, their ornate facades and pitched roofs telling tales of the city’s trading legacy.
As the day drew to a close, we reflected on our experiences. From the solemnity of St. Nikolai Memorial to the imaginative wonder of Miniature Wunderland and the historical charm of Speicherstadt, Hamburg had shown us its many facets—each one adding depth to our understanding of this remarkable city.
Romantic Cologne
Our journey to Cologne was a captivating blend of history, reflection, and sensory delight. We began at the Cologne Cathedral, an awe-inspiring Gothic marvel that towers over the city. Its intricate facade and soaring spires commanded our admiration, symbolizing not only religious devotion but also resilience, having endured through wars and natural calamities.
From the grandeur of the cathedral, we moved to the Trial of Remembrance, where we were immersed in the impact of historical injustices. This poignant experience highlighted the enduring struggles for human rights and the relentless quest for justice and remembrance. It was a sobering reminder of the ongoing fight against oppression and the importance of acknowledging past wrongs.
As we continued, we encountered the Stumbling Stones scattered throughout Cologne’s streets. These small brass plaques, embedded in the ground, serve as memorials to individuals persecuted or deported during the Holocaust. Each stone, engraved with names, dates, and fates, offered a touching tribute to lost lives and the city's dark history.
Transitioning from reflection, we visited the Fragrance Museum, where the art and science of perfume were brought to life. Set in a historic building, the museum provided an immersive experience into the world of scents. Interactive exhibits and aromatic displays deepened our appreciation for the history and cultural significance of perfumery, enriching our understanding of this often-overlooked art form.
Our exploration then led us through Cologne’s Old Town, a charming labyrinth of medieval streets, vibrant squares, and bustling marketplaces. The picturesque scenery of historic buildings and lively atmosphere made for a delightful wander.
At the NS Documentation Center, housed in a former Gestapo headquarters, we gained a profound insight into Cologne’s role during the Nazi era. The center’s exhibits, personal stories, and historical documents offered a detailed account of the city's wartime history, underscoring the importance of remembering past horrors to safeguard democratic values.
We then marveled at the Cologne City Hall, one of Germany's oldest city halls. Its medieval architecture and historic courtyard provided a glimpse into Cologne’s municipal past, from medieval council meetings to modern governance.
As we meandered through the city, the Hohenzollern Bridge frequently caught our eye. Spanning the Rhine River, it serves as both a crucial transport link and a romantic landmark. The bridge’s railings were adorned with countless love locks, symbolizing enduring affection and adding a touch of romance to our journey.
We concluded our exploration in the Belgian Quarter, a vibrant and artistic neighborhood known for its eclectic style. With its chic boutiques, cozy cafes, and contemporary art galleries, the Belgian Quarter offered a modern, creative contrast to the historic charm of the city, leaving us with a well-rounded sense of Cologne's dynamic character.
Financial Frankfurt
Our exploration of Frankfurt was nothing short of enchanting. We began our journey in the Old Town, specifically the Alt-Sachsenhausen district, where narrow streets and historic buildings captivated us. The charming half-timbered houses added a quaint touch to the area, and as we wandered, we discovered cozy pubs and restaurants offering delicious local cuisine. The ambiance of these old streets and buildings sparked our imagination, giving us a glimpse into what Frankfurt might have been like in bygone days.
Our next stop was St. Nicholas Church, a historic gem dating back to the 13th century. With its slender, towering spire and serene, minimalist interior, the church exuded a sense of timeless tranquility. As we walked through its hallowed spaces, we couldn’t help but reflect on the centuries of history that have unfolded within its walls.
Our final destination was the Frankfurt Cathedral, also known as Kaiserdom St. Bartholomew. This majestic Gothic structure, with its striking red brick facade and towering spires, was impossible to miss. Inside, the cathedral's grandeur was further highlighted by its soaring ceilings and stunning stained glass windows. We were particularly moved by the cathedral’s historical significance as a site where emperors were once crowned, adding a profound sense of depth to our visit.
Medieval Rothenburg
Away from the urban chaos we landed in Germany’s countryside and started with a visit at Kingentor, one of the main gates into Rothenburg. This well-preserved gate is part of the old city walls and given a feel for how the town looked in medieval times. As we walked through Kingentor, our imagination tickled what it was like for people entering the town centuries ago.
We were having a fairy tale experience wandering around the charming cobblestone streets of Rothenburg’s Old Town with its traditional shop, colorful houses, and historic buildings literally soaked us in the medieval atmosphere. We walked along the top of the Old town wall which surrounds the city. These walls have been standing for hundreds of years and offered great views of the town and its surroundings got us a sense of the town’s history and its defenses.
Then we visited the most famous spot in Rothenburg; Plönlein. This picturesque square features a charming, half-timbered building with a unique, slightly crooked design.
Finally, we went to Medieval Crime Museum, which offered a fascinating look at historical punishments and justice. The museum has a collection of old documents, tools, and objects related to crime and punishment from the medieval period. Out we learned about about how crime was dealt with in the past.
Leaving behind the hustle and bustle of the city, we ventured into the serene German countryside and arrived in Rothenburg, where our first stop was Kingentor. This impressive gate, a key entrance into the town, is an excellent example of the well-preserved old city walls. As we passed through Kingentor, it was easy to imagine the bustling activity that would have greeted people centuries ago.
Exploring Rothenburg’s Old Town felt like stepping into a fairy tale. The charming cobblestone streets, lined with traditional shops, colorful houses, and historic buildings, enveloped us in a medieval atmosphere. We strolled along the top of the old town walls, which have stood for centuries. The panoramic views of the town and its surroundings provided a tangible sense of its history and the strategic importance of its defenses.
One of the highlights of our visit was Plönlein, Rothenburg’s most iconic spot. This picturesque square is famous for its charming, slightly crooked half-timbered building. The unique design and enchanting setting made it a perfect photo opportunity and an unforgettable experience.
Our tour concluded at the Medieval Crime Museum, a fascinating exploration of historical justice and punishment. The museum’s collection of old documents, tools, and objects related to medieval crime offered a gripping insight into how justice was administered in the past. It was both educational and intriguing to learn about the harsh realities of crime and punishment from centuries gone by.
Historic Nuremberg
Our tour of Nuremberg was a captivating journey through history and culture. We began at Nuremberg Castle, an imposing fortress that majestically overlooks the city. Exploring its ancient walls, towers, and rooms offered us a deep dive into the city’s medieval past. From the castle’s elevated vantage point, we enjoyed panoramic views of Nuremberg and its surroundings, allowing us to imagine life in the bygone era.
Our next stop was Hauptmarkt, the vibrant main market square in Nuremberg. Surrounded by charming old buildings, the square was alive with activity. We marveled at the famous Nuremberg Fountain and admired the stunning Gothic architecture of the Church of Our Lady, which added to the square’s historical charm.
We then walked along the Historic City Walls, which once protected Nuremberg. These well-preserved fortifications provided us with a tangible sense of the city’s medieval defenses. Strolling along the top of the walls or around their base, we appreciated their impressive size and imagined their role in safeguarding the city.
Our tour continued at the Documentation Center, located at the former Nazi Party rally grounds. The museum offered a thorough and poignant look at the Nazi era and its impact on Germany and the world. Through detailed exhibits and displays, we gained a deeper understanding of this dark chapter in history.
Nearby, we visited the Nazi Party Rally Grounds, a vast area once used for grand Nazi rallies. Seeing the remains of the structures and reflecting on their historical significance provided us with insights into the scale and impact of these rallies.
For a more whimsical experience, we visited the Toy Museum. This delightful museum featured a vast array of toys from various eras, transporting us back to our own childhoods. As Swati and I explored the exhibits, we reminisced about the simple household games we used to play, finding joy in the nostalgic displays. The museum was a hit for all four of us, offering an engaging look at the evolution of toys and providing a heartwarming journey through the playful moments of our past.
Our final stop was St. Lorenz Church, a magnificent Gothic structure in Nuremberg. Inside, we admired the exquisite stained glass windows and impressive artwork, appreciating the church’s craftsmanship and serene atmosphere.
A special highlight of our trip was our visit to Mr. Vishal and Sangeeta Bewal’s home. Their warm hospitality and delicious home-cooked meal provided a comforting taste of home, reminding us that despite the miles, heartfelt connections and shared meals make the world feel a little smaller.
Festive Munich
Our journey began at Olympic Park, a vast and dynamic space originally constructed for the 1972 Summer Olympics. We were captivated by its architectural brilliance and natural beauty. The Olympic Stadium's distinctive tent-like roof stood out as a marvel of modern design, while the park's lush green spaces provided a perfect backdrop for our visit.
Next, we delved into the world of automotive excellence at the BMW Museum and BMW Welt. The BMW Museum, with its sleek and futuristic design, offered a fascinating look into the brand's storied history and technological advancements. We explored everything from vintage models to cutting-edge innovations, engaging with BMW’s evolution in a truly immersive way. Adjacent to the museum, BMW Welt dazzled us with its contemporary architecture and interactive exhibits. Here, we saw the latest BMW models and even participated in a factory tour, experiencing firsthand the innovation driving the future of automotive design.
Our tour then took a somber turn as we visited the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site. As the first Nazi concentration camp, Dachau served as a profound and sobering reminder of the atrocities committed during World War II. The site provided a poignant reflection on the Holocaust and the suffering endured by countless individuals.
We wrapped up our exploration with a scenic bus ride through the mountains, culminating in a visit to the Eagle’s Nest, a historic retreat perched high in the Bavarian Alps. Originally built as a mountaintop residence for Adolf Hitler, the serene alpine climate and breathtaking views provided a tranquil contrast to our earlier experiences. Up in the misty heights, Swati and I, along with our kids, felt a renewed sense of joy, dancing through the mist and embracing the moment like children once again.
After a long day of capturing Munich's architectural wonders and vibrant street scenes, we were pleasantly surprised by a taste of "Hare Ram, Hare Krishna" prasadam. This sacred offering, rich in spices and comforting textures, provided a flavorful reminder of home and a delightful contrast to the German cuisine we'd been enjoying. Each bite of prasadam was a harmonious blend of authenticity and devotion, transcending geographical boundaries and adding a unique touch to our journey. This unexpected encounter not only refreshed our spirits but also offered a cross-cultural culinary experience that beautifully complemented our Munich adventures.
Picturesque Hallstatt
Our journey began at Hallstätter See, the stunning lake that defines Hallstatt's enchanting landscape. Nestled between towering mountains, the lake offered a scene of breathtaking beauty. As we strolled along the lakeshore, we were mesmerized by the mirror-like reflections of the surrounding peaks and the lake's tranquil ambiance. The clear, turquoise waters and lush surrounding forests created a serene, almost magical setting. Helik and Hemel were particularly thrilled to see the swans gliding gracefully across the water, their elegant beauty captivating both tourists and ourselves.
Next, we delved into Hallstatt Old Town, a historic gem that radiates timeless charm. The area enchanted us with its narrow, winding streets and beautifully preserved buildings. The architecture, a delightful mix of quaint houses with colorful facades, charming balconies, and flower-filled window boxes, added to the town's allure. The well-maintained buildings and cobblestone streets made us long for a simpler life immersed in such old-world delight. We rounded off our visit by soaking in the picturesque surroundings of Market Square, the vibrant heart of Hallstatt Old Town, where the atmosphere perfectly encapsulated the town's unique character.
Imperial Vienna
Our Viennese adventure began at Schönbrunn Palace, an exquisite embodiment of imperial grandeur and elegance. As we approached this Baroque marvel, the expansive gardens and opulent façade immediately captured our attention. Although we couldn't tour the palace interiors due to budget constraints, we thoroughly enjoyed a delightful ride on a toy train through the meticulously manicured gardens. The sweeping lawns, ornate fountains, and the overall splendor provided a vivid glimpse into Austria’s royal history.
Next, we made our way to St. Stephen’s Cathedral, a true architectural gem at the heart of Vienna. The Gothic spires and intricately tiled roof were nothing short of awe-inspiring. Stepping inside, we were enveloped by the cathedral’s grand scale and serene atmosphere, which offered a peaceful sanctuary amidst the city’s vibrancy.
Our journey continued with a leisurely stroll through Stadtpark, a lush green oasis in the heart of Vienna. We meandered through its beautiful landscape, tranquil ponds, and statues, including the famous golden statue of Johann Strauss. Surrounded by vibrant flowerbeds, serene water features, and shaded groves, the park provided a tranquil respite from the urban hustle, allowing us to relax and soak in the natural beauty amid the city’s architectural splendor.
We spent a significant amount of time wandering down the Graben, one of Vienna’s most renowned and elegant streets. The historic thoroughfare, lined with stunning architecture and high-end boutiques, enchanted us. As we strolled, we admired iconic landmarks such as the Plague Column, a Baroque monument commemorating the end of a devastating epidemic. The Graben’s blend of historic charm and modern sophistication made for a captivating finale to our exploration of Vienna.
Baroque Dresden
Our day of exploration began at the Frauenkirche, a stunning Baroque church that stands as a testament to Dresden’s resilience and renewal. The church’s majestic dome, intricately decorated facade, and beautifully restored interiors captivated us. Inside, the serene and contemplative atmosphere was enhanced by ornate altars and breathtaking frescoes, creating a sense of divine grandeur. From the top of the dome, we were treated to a panoramic view of Dresden’s skyline, where the striking contrast between historic charm and modern recovery was truly remarkable. The Frauenkirche not only reflects the city’s deep cultural and religious heritage but also symbolizes its remarkable rebirth after World War II.
Our next stop was the Zwinger Palace, a quintessential example of Baroque splendor. The grand courtyards, elegant pavilions, and elaborate fountains welcomed us into a world of historical opulence. The palace’s meticulously designed gardens and intricate architectural details provided a feast for the eyes, making it a dream destination for history enthusiasts like us.
We then visited the Dresden Royal Palace, a historical landmark that once housed Saxon kings. Although our budget constraints prevented us from touring the grand halls and richly decorated rooms, glimpses from the outside offered a tantalizing glimpse into the luxurious lifestyle of the former royalty. These views enriched our understanding of Dresden’s rich history and cultural heritage.
Our day concluded with a leisurely stroll through Bruhl’s Terrace, aptly named the “Balcony of Europe” for its breathtaking views over the Elbe River. The beautifully landscaped gardens offered a picturesque vantage point from which to admire Dresden’s architectural splendor. We relaxed on a bench, soaking in the scenic beauty of the city as we reflected on its rich cultural and historical tapestry. The tranquil moment by the river was a perfect end to our exploration, encapsulating the harmonious blend of historic and modern elements that define Dresden.
Sobering Auschwitz
Finally, we arrived at the Auschwitz Concentration Camp, a long-awaited destination I had yearned to visit after reading countless books and watching numerous films about it. Located in Poland, the Auschwitz-Birkenau complex stands as a stark reminder of the Holocaust's horrors, serving as a powerful memorial to the millions who suffered and perished here.
Despite some initial hitches, including a disorienting feeling of being overwhelmed by the place, we eventually joined an English tour. Our guide was exceptional, his demeanor calm and composed as he narrated stories that deeply affected us. The infamous gate inscribed with "Arbeit Macht Frei" (Work Sets You Free) immediately confronted us with its chilling historical significance.
As we wandered through the museum and the former camp's barracks, we encountered harrowing documents and artifacts that detailed the prisoners' experiences. The sight of personal belongings and photographs offered a harrowing glimpse into daily life and the systematic processes of dehumanization and extermination. The displays were both moving and educational, providing a comprehensive understanding of the camp's operation and the profound suffering endured by its inmates.
Walking through the camp, we saw numerous memorials and plaques honoring the victims. The most poignant was the memorial at the end of the railway tracks, which sharply focused our attention on the arrival of countless deportees. The remains of the gas chambers and crematoria stood as silent witnesses to the scale of the atrocities committed. Visiting these sites, we were struck by the sheer enormity of the tragedy and the depth of human loss.
It was a profoundly somber journey into one of the darkest chapters of human history, leaving an indelible mark on our hearts.
Savoring Beer
No trip to these countries is complete without savoring the local beers in this brewery-rich country. I was fortunate enough to sample a variety of beers, each offering a unique taste experience. From the tangy Berliner Weisse and crisp Kölsch, to the smooth Henninger, rich Beck, and robust Radeberger Pilsner, there was something for every palate. I also enjoyed the refreshing Münchner Hell, the hearty Märzen, and the traditional Weizenbier. While I appreciated most of the beers, I was slightly disappointed by the famous Black / Red beer, which had a fruity taste that didn’t quite match my expectations. That said, taste is subjective, and others might find it delightful.
Overall, exploring diverse beer offerings was an unforgettable experience, showcasing the country's rich brewing heritage and the wide range of flavors it has to offer.
Embarking on a tour through Germany, Austria, and Poland has been a deeply enriching adventure, weaving together a vibrant mosaic of history, culture, and personal connection. From the bustling streets of Berlin and the maritime energy of Hamburg to the enchanting medieval charm of Rothenburg and the historical gravity of Auschwitz, each city offered its own unique narrative and insight. Navigating through these diverse regions, whether by train or local transit, not only unveiled the architectural and historical wonders of each place but also provided a practical understanding of European commuting. The warmth and hospitality of the German people, encountered in both bustling cities and quiet towns, added a personal touch to the journey, making every interaction memorable. Savoring the variety of local beers—from a refreshing pilsner in Munich to a rich brew in Krakow—further enhanced the experience, creating a flavorful thread that connected the diverse elements of the trip. This journey was not just a passage through stunning locales and poignant landmarks but also an immersion into the rhythms of daily life and the rich traditions of each region, leaving an indelible mark on the soul.